Sarek diaries
Day 8. Back to Kungsleden
14.09. Distance: 21.2 km
This day turned out to be the richest in terms of impressions and excitement. Our day began, as usual, with a cup of coffee amidst a picturesque landscape.
However, the initial part of our journey presented unexpected difficulties. Lacking precise information about the trail along the slope, we relied on limited online photos showing only the trail's start and end points. This uncertainty led us slightly off course, resulting in a steep and challenging descent. Despite the obstacles, we managed to navigate the terrain safely.
As a result, we went a little to the left and higher than was needed, and then faced a very steep descent. But there was nothing we could do about it, we simply had no choice but to go down at this spot. It was difficult, but we managed. On the map, we marked in blue the route that would probably be the safest to take.
Continuing along the slope of Rapadalen, we were rewarded with stunning vistas, even though the renowned Skierffe viewpoint remained out of sight. This segment marked the conclusion of our journey through the captivating Sarek National Park.
But there was still one and a half days to go. We had to get to the Kungsleden trail and move on it. The marked path goes down to the Aktse hut so we decided to take a short cut. And here again we were misled by a false path. It seemed to be leading in the right direction, but soon the path disappeared and brought us into a thicket of dense wet bushes.
So do not be misled by such paths and instead go above the tree line (on the map - marked in green).
Eventually, we found the right path to Kungsleden and continued on. Compared to the trails we had walked in previous days, it was like a highway. Soon we had to conquer our last task - crossing the Sitojaure lake.
During the summer there is regular ferry service. But in mid September it stops working. We needed to negotiate separately with the owner of the boat, Lars, and we did this through Facebook. Lars replied, "Call when you are on the way to the lake. There must be mobile phone coverage."
There really is such a place - a specially marked sign approximately midway between Aktse and Sitojaure. Unfortunately, we could not get through to any of the numbers indicated on the sign. By that time the weather had turned bad - it had already been raining for a couple of hours. Wet and frozen, we could not wait any longer. We sent a message that at 9 a.m. we would be waiting for the boat on the pier.
Of course, there is an alternative way of crossing Sitojaure lake - by row boat. The distance to row is about 4.5-5 km. However, here, as well as on other lakes along Kungsleden, the "rule of three boats" operates. There must be at least one boat left at every bank. So, if you arrive at shore and there is only one boat, you must first row over, take the second boat, go back , leave it and then again row to the other bank. In total, you have to cross the lake 3 times (15 km). Only then can you continue along the trail.
Already approaching the shore, we met a colleague, another hiker. He said that there was only one boat. He sailed here on it. Ups! But good news - he heard that on the other bank there were two girls who were going to cross the lake tomorrow morning. So, with our hopes up for tomorrow, we went to sleep.
